Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Barca, Part 2 of 2

(JODER. I definitely haven't meant to leave my blog for so long, but I got caught up in studying for an overly complicated linguistics exam as well as writing a lengthy essay, in a mad rush before we left for a four-day trip to Portugal last Thursday. Alas! I'm back, I'm caught up on school work, and my goal is to update The Dawg's Abroad with the rest of my Barca/Lisboa/Cádiz adventures and get my loyal readers caught up---all four of you, that is.)

Arc de Triomf


In an overly large group, we crossed several streets unknowingly because the paved thoroughfare approaching this landmark is totally unremarkable. As an example, the guys and I snapped the above photo (while we were waiting for the 15+ dawdlers) and I bet at first glance, you didn't even notice the Arch in the background! Its image is obscured by the dusty, hazy Barcelona afternoon air and its wow-factor, its "oomph", is diminished by the plain pathway that leads up to it. But now that I point it out, can you see it? I, spy...


Going under the Arch of Triumph (Arc de Triomf in Catalan) is an odd experience, by stark comparison. It is silly to feel a certain thrill just by walking under a bunch of bricks but there must be some kind of intuition that senses history when approaching a monument, that makes us pretend we are a Roman soldier entering the city while fellow citizens wear laurel wreaths on their heads and make the victory sign with their fingers. Well, you know what I mean: You might remain indifferent while approaching a majestic structure like this, because of the plain-Jane surroundings, but it's easier to get carried away when faced with these monuments, while the pale, ghostly faces of our ancestors stare down at you from the friezes.

Beach


In all honesty, there's not a whole lot to say about our afternoon at the beach. We got separated from the guys, saw a glimpse of the water from afar and thought, "Well, why not?" The other girls and I kicked off our shoes and dug our feet into the sand, walked a few kilometers from one end to the other, and fought the wind when it blew hair into our mouths, the whole time gazing longly at that sparkling blue water and wishing, dammit, that it was warm enough to take a swim!

Picasso Exhibit

On Friday, the majority of our group jetted to Dublin and left Jason, Jeremy and I to our own devices. I wouldn't say that the rest of our trip was so enjoyable solely for the fact that we didn't have to stop every 30 feet and wait for everyone to catch up, but it helped. The first place that we went: The Picasso Exhibit!



"Don't take pictures," they tell me, as I'm approaching the penultimate room of the exhibit. Oops.

Marina con casas en primer término
1896

Playa de la Barceloneta
1896

I particularly like this series that Picasso painted during his earlier time in Barcelona, and I thought my American mama would too. The colors in particular are so earthy and warm that it's obvious to see how his Mediterranean inspiration is reflected in the work. I'd like to do my own renditions of these someday; another excuse as to why I broke the "no photography" rule.

Portrait of Benedetta Bianco
1905

Jason, Jeremy, and I of course saw some of Picasso's more well-known works of art since the exhibit is pretty comprehensive, and includes a substantial amount of paintings and sculptures in one artistic style after another. The Blue Period, the Rose Period, Expressionism, Cubism... Picasso seemed to continue his work in a series of experiments that really never ends. Although, I have to say, I personally prefer paintings such as the ones above, to even the most famous of paintings, like Las Meninas. Here, for example, is good comparison of Picasso's earlier work, which I prefer, to Las Meninas, which he painted several decades later when he was already all "cool" and "artsy":

Mujer con mantilla
1917


The detail, in particular, is what makes paintings like this so beautiful to me. From close up or far away, it's easy to appreciate Picasso's ability as an artist (and envy him for it, of course).

Las Meninas
1957

...and then there's this. It is famous, yes, but the image of the "dog" in the foreground actually made me laugh. That's all I'll say.

La Rambla & El Mercat

La Rambla! I'm in love. I actually made a point to walk along la Rambla two days in a row (and not just for the free samples of turrón). This fantastic boulevard stretches for 1200 meters, and is scattered with street venders who sell everything from the typical touristy crap to pet birds and tropical fish, house plants, posters and calendars, crêpes, gelato, gelato-covered crêpes. YUM. Of course, if you can't find something worth buying along la Rambla (ahem, doubtful)...


...You can take a detour through El Mercat de La Boquería. No more than five steps beyond the entrance archway did we stop and stare, mouths agape, appetites suddenly rampant. Everywhere we looked was yet another stall overflowing with brightly colored produce, both local and exotic, piled high and tantalizing. I was tormented by some especially fat blueberries, and Jeremy bought something that's almost like a star fruit, but after we forgot its real name, the best (and most creative) way we could describe it was a squishy, tumor-like lychee-thing that was inexplicably white and surprisingly succulent.




But that's not all! We progressed very, very slowly into El Mercat, not wanting to miss anything. At each and every turn there was some other amazing thing to gawk at and of course agonize over whether or not (or how much) to buy.





Pike Place, YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG.

The chocolates were especially hard to pass by, of course. The fact that they were ridiculously overpriced helped a lot. I did get to taste a small, decadent, piece when an especially friendly vendor gave me a free sample ("A bon-bon for a bon-bon?" he said) and I was in heaven.

Further into the depths of El Mercat we found fish, meat, vegetables, breads, pastries, frozen items, artisan products, wine, cheese, olives, spices, chilies, and more. Understandably, by the time we finally reached the back wall we just couldn't take the temptation anymore and had to pause for lunch. 5€ bought an incredible, substantial amount of warm, delicious falafel tucked into fresh pita on a bed of a romaine, tomato, and carrot salad and hearty paella. It's likely one of my favorite meals I've had since coming abroad.




For dessert we enjoyed ine-cold, fresh, natural fruit juice. They had every flavor (every color of the rainbow, actually)! The more simple juices included blueberry, strawberry, blackberry, etc. Then for the more adventurous, they offered mixes with coconut, guava, kiwi, chocolate, and more. It was the perfect, sweet, and refreshing ending to our time at El Mercat, where I will always, always desire to return.

From one piece of graffiti I saw (translated):

All markets deserve a special walk and story, it is a part of Barcelona's adventure.

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