Barca, Part 2 of 2

(JODER. I definitely haven't meant to leave my blog for so long, but I got caught up in studying for an overly complicated linguistics exam as well as writing a lengthy essay, in a mad rush before we left for a four-day trip to Portugal last Thursday. Alas! I'm back, I'm caught up on school work, and my goal is to update The Dawg's Abroad with the rest of my Barca/Lisboa/Cádiz adventures and get my loyal readers caught up---all four of you, that is.)

Arc de Triomf

In an overly large group, we crossed several streets unknowingly because the paved thoroughfare approaching this landmark is totally unremarkable. As an example, the guys and I snapped the above photo (while we were waiting for the 15+ dawdlers) and I bet at first glance, you didn't even notice the Arch in the background! Its image is obscured by the dusty, hazy Barcelona afternoon air and its wow-factor, its "oomph", is diminished by the plain pathway that leads up to it. But now that I point it out, can you see it? I, spy...

Going under the Arch of Triumph (Arc de Triomf in Catalan) is an odd experience, by stark comparison. It is silly to feel a certain thrill just by walking under a bunch of bricks but there must be some kind of intuition that senses history when approaching a monument, that makes us pretend we are a Roman soldier entering the city while fellow citizens wear laurel wreaths on their heads and make the victory sign with their fingers. Well, you know what I mean: You might remain indifferent while approaching a majestic structure like this, because of the plain-Jane surroundings, but it's easier to get carried away when faced with these monuments, while the pale, ghostly faces of our ancestors stare down at you from the friezes.

Beach

In all honesty, there's not a whole lot to say about our afternoon at the beach. We got separated from the guys, saw a glimpse of the water from afar and thought, "Well, why not?" The other girls and I kicked off our shoes and dug our feet into the sand, walked a few kilometers from one end to the other, and fought the wind when it blew hair into our mouths, the whole time gazing longly at that sparkling blue water and wishing, dammit, that it was warm enough to take a swim!

Picasso Exhibit

On Friday, the majority of our group jetted to Dublin and left Jason, Jeremy and I to our own devices. I wouldn't say that the rest of our trip was so enjoyable solely for the fact that we didn't have to stop every 30 feet and wait for everyone to catch up, but it helped. The first place that we went: The Picasso Exhibit!

"Don't take pictures," they tell me, as I'm approaching the penultimate room of the exhibit. Oops.

Marina con casas en primer término

1896

Playa de la Barceloneta

1896

I particularly like this series that Picasso painted during his earlier time in Barcelona, and I thought my American mama would too. The colors in particular are so earthy and warm that it's obvious to see how his Mediterranean inspiration is reflected in the work. I'd like to do my own renditions of these someday; another excuse as to why I broke the "no photography" rule.

Portrait of Benedetta Bianco

1905

Jason, Jeremy, and I of course saw some of Picasso's more well-known works of art since the exhibit is pretty comprehensive, and includes a substantial amount of paintings and sculptures in one artistic style after another. The Blue Period, the Rose Period, Expressionism, Cubism... Picasso seemed to continue his work in a series of experiments that really never ends. Although, I have to say, I personally prefer paintings such as the ones above, to even the most famous of paintings, like Las Meninas. Here, for example, is good comparison of Picasso's earlier work, which I prefer, to Las Meninas, which he painted several decades later when he was already all "cool" and "artsy":

Mujer con mantilla

1917

The detail, in particular, is what makes paintings like this so beautiful to me. From close up or far away, it's easy to appreciate Picasso's ability as an artist (and envy him for it, of course).

Las Meninas

1957

...and then there's this. It is famous, yes, but the image of the "dog" in the foreground actually made me laugh. That's all I'll say.

La Rambla & El Mercat

La Rambla! I'm in love. I actually made a point to walk along la Rambla two days in a row (and not just for the free samples of turrón). This fantastic boulevard stretches for 1200 meters, and is scattered with street venders who sell everything from the typical touristy crap to pet birds and tropical fish, house plants, posters and calendars, crêpes, gelato, gelato-covered crêpes. YUM. Of course, if you can't find something worth buying along la Rambla (ahem, doubtful)...

...You can take a detour through El Mercat de La Boquería. No more than five steps beyond the entrance archway did we stop and stare, mouths agape, appetites suddenly rampant. Everywhere we looked was yet another stall overflowing with brightly colored produce, both local and exotic, piled high and tantalizing. I was tormented by some especially fat blueberries, and Jeremy bought something that's almost like a star fruit, but after we forgot its real name, the best (and most creative) way we could describe it was a squishy, tumor-like lychee-thing that was inexplicably white and surprisingly succulent.

But that's not all! We progressed very, very slowly into El Mercat, not wanting to miss anything. At each and every turn there was some other amazing thing to gawk at and of course agonize over whether or not (or how much) to buy.

Pike Place, YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG.

The chocolates were especially hard to pass by, of course. The fact that they were ridiculously overpriced helped a lot. I did get to taste a small, decadent, piece when an especially friendly vendor gave me a free sample ("A bon-bon for a bon-bon?" he said) and I was in heaven.

Further into the depths of El Mercat we found fish, meat, vegetables, breads, pastries, frozen items, artisan products, wine, cheese, olives, spices, chilies, and more. Understandably, by the time we finally reached the back wall we just couldn't take the temptation anymore and had to pause for lunch. 5€ bought an incredible, substantial amount of warm, delicious falafel tucked into fresh pita on a bed of a romaine, tomato, and carrot salad and hearty paella. It's likely one of my favorite meals I've had since coming abroad.

For dessert we enjoyed ine-cold, fresh, natural fruit juice. They had every flavor (every color of the rainbow, actually)! The more simple juices included blueberry, strawberry, blackberry, etc. Then for the more adventurous, they offered mixes with coconut, guava, kiwi, chocolate, and more. It was the perfect, sweet, and refreshing ending to our time at El Mercat, where I will always, always desire to return.

From one piece of graffiti I saw (translated):
All markets deserve a special walk and story, it is a part of Barcelona's adventure.

"BARCELONA!! Y U NO SPEAK SPANISH??" (Part 1 of 2)

Here, I have composed for you a list of the things that I had upon returning from five days and four nights in Barcelona:

• $12 USD in my checking account
• three or four extra pounds (just in time for beach weather, yay...)
• a cold and a cough
• a very special souvenir for my American mama that nearly got seized by airport security (it's a surprise!)

And, most importantly:

• the most significant, enjoyable, and lasting memories that I've made on this trip thus far

Truthfully, it's been a struggle to even begin this blog about Barcelona, because I feel as though my words won't do it justice. I can't adequately describe everything that I was fortunate enough to see and experience (and eat), or how quickly infatuated I've become with "Barca," as it's affectionately called. What I can tell you is that if you have an open mind, two feet, and a pair of comfy shoes, Spain's second city will almost certainly enchant you as well! Here are the highlights:

Taking the Metro

Anyone who knows me can vouch for the fact that I have absolutely no innate sense of direction. I get disoriented walking in the front door and exiting out the back. For this reason, my initial reaction to the elaborate, 11-line and over 150-station subway system was pure terror. The first time we navigated the subterranean labyrinth I had flashbacks of myself in the first grade, when I got off at the wrong bus stop and cried the entire fifteen-minute walk home. However, Barcelona's metro connects to just about every place my group and I visited during our stay, and with the T10 pass we managed to get around easily with ten rides for just €8,25. Plus, at every turn and station platform there are color-coded route maps that show transfer locations, line numbers, and end stops, so with a little luck and through the incredible power of reading, I made it out alive. ...Although I did get stuck in a metro gate with Nolan for several humiliating minutes.

Gaudi's Sagrada Familia

You have to wake up early to get in line to see architect Antoni Gaudi's remarkable, unfinished cathedral, but once you're inside it's completely worth it. His unique and unusual architecture can actually be found all over the city but the impressive Sagrada Familia is certainly one of the most notable. The ground breaking of this impressive Roman Catholic church took place in 1882 and after taking the reins in 1883, Gaudi labored on its construction for 43 years until his death. Now, construction workers busy themselves behind the barricades as tourists snap shots of the finished pieces, which are an eclectic combination of Gaudi's design and Gaudi-inspired design.

Although La Sagrada Familia was consecrated by Pope Benedict XVI just recently in 2010, and themes throughout the decoration include words and images from the liturgy, as a Catholic I'm going to say: I just don't get it. Especially in stark comparison with the incredible and ancient Catedral de Sevilla, La Sagrada Familia to me seems less of a church and more of a fun house. That's not to say the architectural and design work isn't impressive, but I think the sheer novelty of Gaudi's concept is the most interesting. It is certainly like nothing I have ever, ever seen before.

Parc de la Ciutadella

When I mentioned to be sure to bring a pair of comfy shoes to Barca, I meant it! Even though the metro is fantastic, there is just too much to see above ground. One example is the Parc de la Ciutadella, a gorgeous city center that we passed through on our self-guided tour. Here, father's pushed toddlers in strollers around a shady grotto, mom's puffed on cigarettes and walked their dogs. A gang of young boys kicked up dirt playing a rough game of fútbol, while nearby younger kids swarmed around a Gazebo laughing and shouting in fun, as kids do. We took a moment to stop and rest our feet, enjoying the sun and admiring the view...

...before climbing to the top to see the park from above.

Then it was on to the next!


(To be continued in Part 2...)