Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Carnavales de Cádiz 2012


I'd like to preface this blog entry by saying: Nothing can prepare you for Carnival. It's not something anyone outside of Andalucía could easily understand unless you have already experienced it, and I feel that Americans in particular have so few public festivals apart from Mardi Gras that it's hard for someone (like me) from the States to wrap their mind around all that this annual, 10-day celebration entails. In the same league as Rio de Janeiro, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and, of course, Notting Hill, the Cádiz Carnival is one of the world’s best, and it’s also the biggest and most extravagant anywhere in mainland Spain. Add in the fact that Cádiz was the first town in Spain to be granted its own Constitution and coincidentally celebrates its bicentenary this year, and you've got a raucous, riotous, satirical, colourful and exotic party the likes of which this American has never seen, dreamt of, or could even begin to expect.

...not for lack of trying, however. In the day or two prior to Carnival I experienced multiple waves of concern wash over me as my teachers at UCA, our incredible director Rita, and my host familia expressed two core principles regarding the event: "For the love of God be careful, but if you need anything at all, no matter what time of night or day, don't hesitate to call. I mean it. Anything," (not foreboding at all, right?) and, "Watch out for all the piss and shit in the streets. It happens." Hypothetically, if you had nine people tell you these things ad nauseum, wouldn't you be moderately concerned, too? Where is my Carnival informational pamphlet? Why doesn't Rick Steves write about these things?!

Friday

Although Carnival is advertised as having officially started on Friday the 17th, my fellow Dawgs and I had heard through the grapevine that the following night was "the best," and Sunday "even better." However, from what I saw on Friday night this unofficial itinerary didn't deter the locals nor the Washingtonians from getting the party started right away. As is Spanish custom, no one really planned on much happening before 10 or 11 PM. By then, the excitement in the air was so thick I could have drizzled it over pancakes. We eagerly congregated in the Plaza de Fragela, otherwise and appropriately referred to as the Plaza Teatro for the Gran Teatro Falla that dominates the square. This is apparently a popular place for day 1 of Carnival to take place, because until dawn the judges of a very large and important music competition** deliberate on the outcome, while the locals diligently wait, mingle, and drink outside until sunrise to hear their verdict.

I, however, did not make it until sunrise. The temperature rapidly plummeted and although I was bundled up in boots, two sweatshirts, a scarf, gloves, and my heavy winter coat, my hands turned a nasty shade of blue and I'm pretty sure I was on the brink of frostbite. Ultimately, it was the cold that drove me home at around 1 AM, but admittedly I wouldn't have lasted much longer than that had it been a balmy summer night. For one, at 10 PM the ridiculous costumes that everyone adorns were interesting and clever. I spotted everything from a herd of cows, to smurfs, tin soldiers, wizards, comic book characters, cops, Nazis, and Waldo from the popular kids' eye-spy book series. Even Gaddafi and Obama attended the festivities! A few hours later, however, the crowd had tripled in size and a large group of men dressed as condoms (with the invitation, "¿Te quieres probar?" or, "Would you like to try?" stamped across their chests) was getting a bit too rowdy for me. For my first impression of Carnival, I was just too overwhelmed to fully enjoy myself, but the rest of Carnival stretched promisingly ahead. Maybe that's why they make it last ten days?

Saturday

Although I went home Friday night feeling a little in over my head, I really, really enjoyed myself with all that Carnival had to offer Saturday night! My friends and I dressed up in our disfraces as well; a peacock, a candy cane, Cleopatra, a Cheshire cat, a chef, and Jason and myself in awesome (his was a little creepy...) Venetian masks! The evening started with another huge mob scene-- this time in Plaza de San Antonio, where a huge stage had been erected.

BOOM!

See that cannon in the photo above? The stage crew had managed to get several atop the buildings on either side of the plaza, so when the lights dropped and the spot light shone...


...it was as though the French were actually attacking! Cannon fire and gunshots rang out overhead, while an MC on stage prefaced the Siege of Cádiz of 1812 over the sound system. The rest of the show was equally exciting, complete with great light effects, full choirs, and a cast of actors depicting the birth of Cádiz's constitution. Most importantly, all of it was imbued with a very empowering sense of gaditano pride, and while I'm obviously not a native it was fun to join in the anthems that I knew and celebrate being a part of this incredible city.

After the show, the rest of the night was a blur of excitement, crowds, and cheap wine. Street vendors lined the streets offering cheap bocadillos for hungry party-goers and everywhere people crowded around in indistinguishable groups talking, laughing, and making friends with whomever (inevitably) bumped into you or asked you for a spare cigarillo. Thanks mostly to these crowds, it was IMPOSSIBLE to mobilize, but also in part due to the condition of the streets. Remember those warnings I had received? Easily the least glamorous part of Carnival was everyone's blatant disregard when it came time to use the baño. Girls squatted in doorways, while men peed on everything from cars to trashcans all in spite of the fact that the city had taken measures to place temporary bathrooms and port-a-potties in every plaza. I cannot get much more graphic than tossing the words "puddles" and "sewage" out there. Ugh.

Sunday

Sunday was another wonderful day, not solely for the fact that I was finally able to Skype my family, but also because I was able to Skype my family right before seeing an amazing fireworks show on the beach, as well as an amazing nighttime parade that words cannot describe. Fourth of July, eat your heart out.





The overall quality and creativity of these floats was ASTOUNDING. I didn't think to get photos of some of my favorites until it was too late, or else they came out too blurry. Regardless, I wish you could have seen the life-size Asian elephant, the HUGE mechanical man, the giant lumbering dragon, and an amazing float of showgirls dressed like Napoleon atop a  French naval ship. Waves, dolphins, tridents, and huge heads representing the gods of the wind and sea adorned them. Even the people who accompanied the floats on foot were dressed to the nines in incredible and elaborate costumes; a spectacle all their own!

Al fin

Although I had my reservations in the beginning, Carnival has proven to be an amazing experience! Now I understand why no one can ever really prepare you for its festivities (although I wished someone had warned me to bring muck boots...). As it turns out, my favorite parts of Carnival didn't include staying up until all hours of the evening drinking just for the sake of drinking, but instead were focused on the actual reasons behind the celebration. I would be overjoyed if the US or even just our nation's capital could put together some of these extravagant displays of patriotism and shows for our own Independence day! At least I'll always have the memory of celebrating my gaditano pride in the biggest, raucous way possible.

Foot Note

**The Falla's Contest is a music festival held in the Gran Teatro Falla before Carnival and, to a certain extent, is a relatively serious competition as the show is televised across Spain. Competition is keen, and contestants spend months in preparation (we got a preview of some of the acts back in January during Erizada and Ostionada). The most popular type of group is the chirigotas, choirs normally of ten unison or close-harmony singers that dress alike in ridiculous costumes and for the rest of Carnival clog up the streets with the crowds of people who stop to watch and listen. Some are accompanied by bombo, caja (anything to be used as a percussion instrument), and guitar. My host madre explained that their repertoire is exclusively satirical, but you have to speak really, really good gaditano to appreciate the nuances (dammit).



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